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Post by Cousin Vito on Aug 10, 2018 13:03:48 GMT -5
Hello everyone, I just wanted to hear about everyone’s card buying strategy.
1) Do you concentrate on just the 80’s? I’m in 1982 and I usually only buy cards from my era because I want to conserve funds if a RARE card pops up. Should I be trying to add 90s cards this early?
2) Do you buy all jobber and opener card? For the sake of collecting the cards I am buying most cards from the 80s already, but sometimes I wonder whether it’s even worth buying a common opener cards.
3) How do you utilize tokens? I’ve been saving mine to hopefully convert to cash when a rare card pops up. I just wanted to know if anybody else uses them differently.
I have more questions but this is a pretty good start.
Also, is there a Tag Team master list?
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Post by Magnifico jr. on Aug 10, 2018 14:45:46 GMT -5
Hello everyone, I just wanted to hear about everyone’s card buying strategy. 1) Do you concentrate on just the 80’s? I’m in 1982 and I usually only buy cards from my era because I want to conserve funds if a RARE card pops up. Should I be trying to add 90s cards this early? 2) Do you buy all jobber and opener card? For the sake of collecting the cards I am buying most cards from the 80s already, but sometimes I wonder whether it’s even worth buying a common opener cards. 3) How do you utilize tokens? I’ve been saving mine to hopefully convert to cash when a rare card pops up. I just wanted to know if anybody else uses them differently. I have more questions but this is a pretty good start. Also, is there a Tag Team master list? 1. It's best to buy the cards in all decades so you have some guys in the 90s 2. Buy them so there is room for better cards Yes there is a tag master list
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Post by Skullgore on Aug 10, 2018 17:11:59 GMT -5
1.) More or less, I stick to the decade I'm in. Once it gets to be 87-88, I'll start buying 90s guys.
2.) Yes. They are cheap and the openers get stale enough even if you have all of them. And as Magnifico pointed out, it clears your store to stock less common items.
3.) Since I am starting anew and not carrying anything from past versions over, I have a couple of guiding principles for my first playthrough. I bought 5 tokens off the bat to have some capital to work with. Two of those tokens are saved for whenever the +2 Mic managers pop up. I hate having lousy interviews bringing my show rating down. I could have used 3 and sprung for the +5 MIC/POP cards, but I like having the managers' push to give me a chance at better controlling my booking. I'll buy any 80s cards up to Upper Midcarders, regardless of how good/bad they are. I will only buy a Main Eventer if they are active for the entire decade. I'm not even concerning myself with Legendary cards on the initial run. I'd rather introduce them into my game when I have a good base of Main Event cards that can be competitive with them. By the time I'm in the 90s, if an 80s Main Eventer pops up that I'll be able to use immediately through my second playthrough, then I'll probably buy it (as long as it isn't an overlapping variation on a card I have - like Ace Arcadium/Ace of Spades, for example.) Subsequent playthroughs will give me the tokens I need to start getting those more expensive cards. My method makes those additional playthroughs feel fresher when I can use guys that weren't around the first time through.
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Post by BigDaddyBeast on Aug 10, 2018 18:33:29 GMT -5
1) I'm in the middle of 85, so 80's is my priority, but if it's a good enough 90's card I won't pass on it.
2) I don't go for jobbers and only get openers if they're going to have good stats like Chet or (foil) Racer, or if I can make a feud with them. I just picked up Officer Chip last night.
3) I've only used mine thus far for cash.
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Post by canadianwolfe on Aug 12, 2018 17:04:55 GMT -5
Anything cheap (50000 or less) I swipe right away. I don't buy foils at unless they are Openers (Really helps with Openers Only Match so you don't tank a show with a bad match). Main Event (and Legends) depends on their value to me at the time they hit the store (I skipped Jupiter and a few others because I felt they were a waste at the time).
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Post by Hawk on Aug 13, 2018 8:09:26 GMT -5
1) It doesn't matter to me what year the card is for. If a cool 90's guy shows up in the 80's I'll buy him. Not only will I have him on stand-by for when I need him, but who knows when the card will come back around.
2) I buy all of them, even if it sucks. Mandonna, I used the card just long enough to max out the stats, and then that was it. After a show or two I'll easily make up the money I spent on a jobber/opener. Not to mention I won't have them bogging down the store and taking up the place of a good card. Same holds true for foils. I used to ignore any and all foils that come my way. Now I buy them to clear out the store; however I'm starting to appreciate the value of them.
3) I plan on saving the token and using it for a Main Event or Legendary card. However, if a series of cool cheap cards pop up then I'll usually exchange the token for cash. More often than not I shoot for quantity over quality.
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Post by Ace of Spades on Aug 13, 2018 13:59:49 GMT -5
...I just bought everyone. I bought the common/uncommon foils to make sure I got the rares faster. I had no issue spending money to support the game because I adore it, and because it is reasonably priced.
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Post by Thumper Moore III on Aug 13, 2018 16:53:15 GMT -5
The foils of the openers are significantly better in terms of total draw (which I believe logically should affect crowd size, and therefore revenue). I always try to snap up these, as they’ll provide almost as much boost to average draw (in an opener only match) as a legendary would at 10% of the cost.
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BloodyKeith
Main Eventer
Cup of coffee in the big time, yeah!
Posts: 182
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Post by BloodyKeith on Sept 26, 2018 5:41:52 GMT -5
1.) More or less, I stick to the decade I'm in. Once it gets to be 87-88, I'll start buying 90s guys. 2.) Yes. They are cheap and the openers get stale enough even if you have all of them. And as Magnifico pointed out, it clears your store to stock less common items. 3.) Since I am starting anew and not carrying anything from past versions over, I have a couple of guiding principles for my first playthrough. I bought 5 tokens off the bat to have some capital to work with. Two of those tokens are saved for whenever the +2 Mic managers pop up. I hate having lousy interviews bringing my show rating down. I could have used 3 and sprung for the +5 MIC/POP cards, but I like having the managers' push to give me a chance at better controlling my booking. I'll buy any 80s cards up to Upper Midcarders, regardless of how good/bad they are. I will only buy a Main Eventer if they are active for the entire decade. I'm not even concerning myself with Legendary cards on the initial run. I'd rather introduce them into my game when I have a good base of Main Event cards that can be competitive with them. By the time I'm in the 90s, if an 80s Main Eventer pops up that I'll be able to use immediately through my second playthrough, then I'll probably buy it (as long as it isn't an overlapping variation on a card I have - like Ace Arcadium/Ace of Spades, for example.) Subsequent playthroughs will give me the tokens I need to start getting those more expensive cards. My method makes those additional playthroughs feel fresher when I can use guys that weren't around the first time through. There's a +5 mic card?
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Post by histerik on Sept 26, 2018 7:42:15 GMT -5
Yep, both cheap pop and cheap heat give a +5 mic/pop bonus.
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BloodyKeith
Main Eventer
Cup of coffee in the big time, yeah!
Posts: 182
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Post by BloodyKeith on Sept 26, 2018 10:06:50 GMT -5
Yep, both cheap pop and cheap heat give a +5 mic/pop bonus. I've been playing for so long and only just realised this! This is amazing, thanks!
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Post by MystMotone101 on Sept 26, 2018 10:12:58 GMT -5
1. I put the 80s on priority at the start, since that's where I was playing in. After reaching '87 to '89, then I put some emphasis on the 90s, so I wouldn't be back at square one.
2. It depends on the opener and the jobber for free to play. If you are a cash player, then this would be good, but as free to play, quality is better than quantity. If the openers and jobbers are good, then get them. If not, then skip them. Same rule applies to rarer cards.
3. When I was free to play, I did the same thing. I kept my tokens in the event of a rare card (but I also used them early on to get an extra segment for each of my shows).
Also, there is a Tag Team master list, just gotta look for it.
There's also a Beginner's guide for people wanting to learn the most optimal ways of playing free to play (made by me, of course). I'm more than willing to answer anything that a new player may have.
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Post by ringworm on Sept 26, 2018 10:53:48 GMT -5
I purchased all of my wrestler cards first. I maybe spent $20-30 in cash before just spamming month after month - year after year to get as many tokens as possible. Once my account had a decent amount of tokens saved up, I had no issue buying any of the wrestlers that came up, then moved on to match types and promo cards. DO NOT waste your tokens by refreshing the shop page. It's worth the wait to just let the shop refresh on its own. No sense it throwing away tokens if you are already looking for a strategy to acquire cards.
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